Huffs in Jerusalem

Among our very best friends are Kay and Randy Huff -- BYU roommates that married roommates in 1964.  We have waited all year for their Holy Land tour.

May 20 (Fri. evening)

Dan Jerusalem Hotel / Philadelphia Dinner -- We met them at this superb 5* hotel (500 rooms), very close to the JC and Hebrew Univ.  We had also stayed there when we came with Roy & Carol Christensen's 1999 Holy Land tour.

The hotel lacked food service on Sabbath eve, so we dined at Philadelphia Restaurant -- next to Jimmy's Bazaar.  (He brought us there & comp'd the Arab meal for us; it later paid off for him!) L to Rt. are:  Christensens, Huffs, Wayne Shute seated by me, Elder John & Jean Groberg.

Roy & Carol Christensen have led more tours than anyone I know -- even more than Cleon Skousen or Truman Madsen.  They are still going strong.

Co-hosts on this tour was Elder John H. Groberg.  (I was called to be Reg'l Rep. under him in 1992.)   He was just released as Idaho Falls Temple Pres.

The Great Synagogue.  I drove the JC's giant 10-person van to Friday Mincha services here.  The facade was modeled after the 2nd temple. [See May '11 post, Jerusalem with Melissa.]  This time we had no choir, but a fine cantor.

LWF Augusta-Victoria Guest House.  For 4 nights they stayed at this nearby lodging -- small but clean rooms and with an ample Arab breakfast spread.

May 21 (Sat.) -- LDS Church services, Zurim Valley, Christian churches. 

After our 3-hour Church mtgs. we took the Zurim Valley scenic walk below the JC.  This is the newest Nat'l Park -- an open space around much of the Old City.

It was a nice nature hike past old & newly planted olive trees & grazing animals

Down Ben Adaya St., we passed an Arab college & one of our charities -- both at the base of the hill supporting our JC.

Next we entered the historic Kidron Valley separating the Mt. of Olives (left) from the Old City & Temple Mt.  That valley runs into the Dead Sea!  Jesus crossed it to pray at Gethsemane, on the Mt. of Olives.  Behind us was the JC.

Soon the Old City was on our right (west) and on our left was our destination -- the glittering gold-domed Russian Church of St. Mary Magdalene.

But getting there was tricky.  First, we had to pass thru an Arab Christian cemetery.  Then our wives needed a little help over a stone wall. 

We were disappointed not to be admitted into their Russian Vespers service.

 But we made the best of it by visiting the unique Dominis Flevit church, built in the 1950s and shaped like a tear drop to commemorate Jesus weeping over the fate of Jerusalem.  [See Dec. '10 post, Last Days of Jesus.]

Just before it closed, we got in to see the Old City thru their unique window.

A real highlight was our return visit to Gethsemane and the elegant Church of All Nations. [See our Nov. post, Olive Processing -- Gethsemane]

Inside it is dark but reverent, suggesting the agony Jesus endured there.

Near this outcropping of bedrock, Jesus may have prayed.

Outside the church is this frieze, depicting the Lord's agonizing atonement -- and the angel coming to strengthen -- but not to deliver -- him (Luke 22:43).

Ancient olive trees here are almost 2,000 years old -- but perhaps planted + 300 AD when Constantine's mother Helena preserved this site with an early church.  This tree's outer trunks have now joined with the inner core.

Afterwards, we passed a large Jewish cemetery on the Mt. of Olives.  They honor their dead with stones rather than flowers -- far more permanent.

Then we sighted Absalom's Tomb & "Tombs of the Prophets" -- supposedly for Haggai and Zechariah.

Randy stopped at the "Crash Corner" market for some breakfast fruit.

We ended our day with dinner at our apt.  The JC flowers are still in full bloom. 

May 22 (Sun.) Rockefeller Museum, YMCA carillons, Bethlehem services,  Rachel's tomb, JC Concert.  Our day started at this Monument that honors Jordanian troops slain during the Six-Day War of 1967 with Israel.

This gives us the best views of JC on Mt. Scopus and the Mount of Olives, including the Orson Hyde Garden and nature trails we took the previous day.

Rockefeller Museum. This is directly across the street from the above monument, at the NE corner of the Old City walls.  It is the largest bldg. visible from our JC.  Opened in 1938, it was the only museum in Israel until after the 1967 war.  Its tall hexagonal tower was used as a lookout during that war.

Some artifacts from past millenia are still there.  Most (i.e., Dead Sea Scrolls) may be in Israel Museum. The Central Courtyard is a gem.

YMCA Tower & Carillon Bells. Before noon, we ascended this iconic tower. 

Every Sunday here, Mike Ohman plays the country's largest musical instrument -- 35 bronze bells from England, here after the tower was built in 1930's.

This sends out sounds of peace & hope to 1 M people in greater Jerusalem.

Kay and Marilyn -- and eventually even Randy -- got into the act. 

There are panoramic views in all directions -- over the King David Hotel towards the JC, towards Bethlehem and the expanding West Jerusalem.

 Afterwards, we enjoyed a fine meal and beautiful grounds there.

                                            We were glad we came.

LDS Services in Bethlehem.  Next we passed thru the Separation Wall.  Each Sunday JC leaders park & walk thru it for LDS worship services.  It looks ominous, but it has curtailed some past terrorism into Israel.

On the Israeli side is this hopeful mural urging "Love and Peace."

 On the Bethlehem side, the graffiti are somewhat different.

  Our mtgs. are held on the 3rd floor of this 4-story apartment bldg.

Randy helped with the Sacrament, I was the speaker and Kay taught R.S.  The Hananiah family of 7 (2 parents, 3 sons, 1 wife & a child) attended for the 1st time after their return from Utah several yrs. ago.  The normal size of this group almost doubled . 

Returning back through the wall was uneventful -- this time.  It is often exciting.

Rachel's Tomb.  Adjoining the Wall, now on the Israeli side, is this historic site.  Jews claim it is their 3rd holiest site (Gen. 35:19-20).  Muslims claim it as a mosque, next to their cemetery.  There have been many battles fought over it, as it rests on the line between Israel & the West Bank. 

Today, it is within a large concrete Israeli enclosure and is barely visible.

JC Concert.  That night at the JC, a piano trio superbly played familiar Mozart & Schubert sonatas.  (These shots were at prior concerts.)

The real action came before & after the concert -- with JC architect David Reznik and his charming wife Esther and daughter Leah.

They stayed afterwards to greet  appreciative students and others.

May 23 (Mon.)

Terra Sancta Church, Israel Supreme Court, Chagall Windows, Jimmy's

Our Monday began in the Old City, parking at the Notre Dame Center and walking through New Gate to the lovely Franciscan church of Terra Sancta.

Built in the early 1800s over an ancient Crusader & Byzantine site (1200s), this may be the most beautful Christian church in the Old City.

It is also where Orson Hyde may have stayed when he dedicated the Holy Land for God's own purposes in 1841.   "Hyde" is carved in this door, as pilgrims often did then.  [See Jan. '11 post, Jerusalem Christian Churches.]

Israel Supreme Court.  Across town in the Nat'l Precinct of W. Jerusalem, this unique structure is near the Knesset, Israel Museum and other govt. offices. 

[See other photos in Jan. '12 post, Knesset & Sup. Ct.]

Funded by the Rothschild Foundation in the 1980s, it incorporated many contrasting elements.  The entry stairway walls resembled the Old City's unhewn stones on the right & modern white walls on the left.

The Library.  There are many stacks & volumes of legal thinking over the centuries, affirming the centrality of law in Jewish history.

Courtroom Foyer.  This long and wide space include both natural stones & modern white walls, with pyramid-shaped skylights spreading light & shadows.

The Courtrooms.  Each is similar in design.  Press box is on the left, prisoners' dock on the rt.  Attys. sit at the rounded table facing up to three justices.

[See more photos in Jan. '12 post, Knesset & Supreme Ct.]

Ein Kerem -- Chagall Windows, Hadassah Hospital Chapel.  After lunch, we motored through the steep wooded hills of nearby Ein Kerem, the traditional birthplace of John the Baptist.

Hadassah Medical Center.  This was built for Hebrew Univ. after 1948, when the main Mt. Scopus campus was closed during the Arab-Israeli War.

Stained-glass windows  Mounted above the hospital's Abbell Synagogue are stunning east-facing windows depicting Jacob's blessings to his 12 sons.

Marc Chagall.  This world-famous artist made these as a gift to Jerusalem, without any pay.  Three windows are on each of 4 sides, high above the room.

Of particular interest to us were the windows of Joseph ("a fruitful bough")  and Judah -- a "lion's whelp" and a ruler  (Gen. 49:9-10, 22-26).

Also Levi with the Urim & Thummim, to administer holy things (Deut.33:8).

All are beautiful and with deep scriptural insights -- described by recorded messages in Hebrew and English as we rotated around the room.

Knesset hopes dashed.  We returned to the Israeli legislature to attend a live session, but were not admitted.   Then we drove in circles around David's Harp (metal sculpture), trying to follow Randy's GPS and find our way back. 

Jimmy's Bazaar.  Finally, we got back to East Jerusalem for some olive wood. 

As always, Jimmy was attentive and well prepared for every need.

While others shopped, I watched these backgammon champs in action.

Here are some special pieces we all liked.

We ended our day eating at the Arab Cave ("Salah al-Din" restaurant) near us.

May 24 (Tues)
Augusta Victoria, Russian Ascension Church, Princess Basma, City walks

Our last day together began at the Lutheran church nearest their guest house: Augusta Victoria Church of the Ascension.  [See Dec. '10 post, Churches of Jerusalem -- Ascension and Hurva.]

Named for Kaiser Wilhelm's empress, its striped Byzantine design reminded us of a church in Bulgaria.  Windows admit streaming light in warm colors.  The aging pneumatic organ in the chapel choir still resonates in this great hall.

 Ceiling paintings depict the Medeival Holy City framed by Crusader kings.  Also Christ as ruler of the world, surrounded by angels & apostles (rt.)

We also discovered this large assembly hall above the chapel.  This painting of the Triumphal Entry of Jesus to Jerusalem is a favorite.

Thru the Augusta-Victoria front entry, we left to visit another nearby church.

Russian Church of the Ascension.  This complex contains a monastery, two chapels and a soaring bell tower.  In front is an impressive olive grove.

At the rear is this small but unique chapel with a lovely apse and paintings.

They believe the head of John the Baptist was found here in the 5th century, in a jar inside this floor cavity, after it was severed by Herod Antipas.

In front is another small but much more elaborate chapel.  Its painted ceilings, with many scenes from the life of Christ, were breathtaking.

        We didn't know that Russian churches could be so bright and cheerful.

Gilded woodwork, ascending on both sides of the apse, enhanced its glittering beauty.

We almost hated to leave this small but exquisite gem in A Tur -- open to the public only on Tues. & Thurs. for two hours, from 10 am to noon.

Outside, we visited with this kindly priest, who spoke pretty good English and helped us find our way around the complex, as they were not used to having many tourists visit there.

Princess Basma Children's Rehab Center.  Our visit here was a real treat for the Huffs.  They came to see the BYU murals, but mostly enjoyed the kids.

While Marilyn worked out some details with headmaster Jamilla, we saw the rehab care being given to many disabled children after school was out.

See Feb. post, Princess Basma preschool & murals.

Arab Cave.   Being close to a favorite eating spot, we stopped at Saladin's for lunch.  How fortunate for Kay.  She found her cellphone left there the prior night!

Pita Factory.  One of our cheapest and best foods here is the small round pita bread.  Cut in half, it opens up a hidden pocket for inserting cheese, meat, etc.  We stopped to buy another dozen and saw how they make these.

They are laid, like tortillas, on a conveyor belt.  But when they are baked, hot air is blown inside them to create those useful pockets.

They are especially good when piping hot.

Art Walk - West Jerusalem.  Next, we parked (by mistake, in a handicapped space) and walked to some interesting art shops close to Mamilla Mall.

The first shop displayed some of the same metal sculptures we saw at Mamilla.

Another had some wonderful water color paintings.

This one had some excellent metal and glass sculptures.

And a shop with some more water color landscapes.  The Huffs couldn't decide, so they may have their own painting done in CA from one of their photos.

Bush Plaza.   Along the way we found this lovely, small "W. Bush" plaza named in honor of Geo. Bush #43 and his 2008 visit to Israel as a "loyal partner."

The King David Hotel.  Walking further up the street, we visited this historic bldg.  Once the British HQ, it was blown up by the Jewish Irgun in 1947.

It is directly across King David Street from the YMCA Tower & complex.

Built in 1936 during the British Mandate, it is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year with a long marble "Walk of Fame" across its front foyer.

Signatures of famous dignitaries as guests were inscribed there, ranging from Winston Churchill & Margaret Thatcher to Jascha Heifets & the Beatles.

The hotel has been completely restored and elegantly appointed in every way.

The outdoor areas are as exquisite as those indoors.

Also inside was a collection of David Roberts' early Jerusalem paintings.

Street Scenes.  Outside the hotel were horses and policemen, occasionally distracted by the opposite sex.

We also saw some interesting characters, incl. these Greek Orthodox priests.

Walking back towards the Old City, we saw this distinctive Greek Orthodox windmill.  In the 1800s it produced flour to feed Christian pilgrims at Easter -- then was relocated to Rehavia's commercial district in the 1980s. Also,  there was a profusion of Israeli flags -- for their ongoing Independence celebrations.

Old City; Dinner at Mamilla.  The next two hours were spent wandering through the narrow walks & shops of the Old City -- incl. Jewish & Christian Quarters.  By nightfall, we were hungry & ate at the Mamilla Hotel's outdoor patio.

These were wonderful days together -- to be recalled often by these photos.