Russian Church of Mary Magdalene

Russian Orthodox Convent of St. Mary Magdalene.  This is perhaps the most conspicuous church in Jerusalem.  It was built in 1888 next to Dominus Flevit and Gethsemane, directly opposite the Temple Mount.   The 7 gilded onion domes shine brightly on the Mount of Olives slopes.

It is only open to public visits for two hours on two days (10 am to noon). 

We went with the Ohmans and Chapmans on Tues., 8/16/11. 

 Inside the front iron door, a pathway ascends the mount amid flowers, thick pine groves and other lush vegetation, until the church appears. 

Each glistening spire is crowned with a cross.  The bell tower is ringed with square pillars beneath a silver cone, another gold dome and a cross.

 The facade is of sculpted white, marble-like sandstone.  Above it within a gable is a circular blue mosaic framed in gold of Mary Magdalene, dressed in white -- 1st witness to the resurrection (John 20:16-18).

On entering, one first notices the large oil-lamp chandelier. (No electricity is used inside.)  Also, the marble floor has colored geometric mosaics resembling those at another Russian Orthodox Church, St. Alexander Nevsky.  [See April post, Christian Churches Jerusalem.] 

Beyond the chandelier is a huge painting of Mary Magdalene before Emperor Tiberius in Rome.  She is handing him a painted Russian egg that turned red (signifying Christ's death & resurrection), when she told of Jesus' unjust trial and death by Pilate.  This legend has no historical basis, but it may have started the Christian custom of dying Easter eggs.

Beneath the painting is a wide iconostasis separating the outer sanctuary from a holy inner prayer hall.  Its carved white marble encases various paintings, icons and relics. 

Six tiny paintings on the ornate doors depict the 4 evangelists, Virgin Mary and the angel Gabriel.  Inside the doors (which open outward) is a veil through which priests pass for prayer at a holy altar.

High above the sanctuary are several other distinctive paintings depicting Mary Magdalene with Jesus.

A variety of painted designs & shades adorn the walls, arches & ceilings. 

Some of these patterns are quite elaborate.

Two remarkable Russian saints lie in state here.  On the left side is Grand Duchess Elizabeth -- wife of Czar Nicholas'  brother Sergei & sister of the Czar's wife Alexandra.  After the church's dedication in 1888, she oversaw much of the interior artwork -- and even asked to be interred there.  After Sergei was killed by a terrorist in Moscow, she became a nun but was herself killed by the Bolsheviks in 1918.  

Right of the iconostasis is another martyr, a nun who would not leave Elizabeth.  The Bolsheviks starved both of them to death in a mine shaft.

Before we left, a group of singers & priests gathered to do some lovely Palestrina Gregorian chants.

In May, we had tried to attend their evening services & Vespers but were turned away.  [See June post, Huffs in Jerusalem,]  This was much better.

While not as bright inside as the Russian Church of the Ascension [see Dec. post, Ascension & Hurva Churches], ample windows admitted enough light and some fine views.

Outside, a priest engaged one of his congregants in vigorous discourse.

Descending views of the Temple Mount were extraordinary. 

Three Christian churches surround the golden Muslim shrine -- Terra Sancta & Lutheran Redeemer (rt.) and Dormition Abbey (left).

Midway between the Dome of the Rock & Al Aksa Mosque on Temple Mt. is the new Jewish Hurva synagogue (white dome).

A Russian nun kept the forested walkway broom-clean.

We exited at the iron door and up the pathway to 7 Arches Hotel.

There we had more views across Kidron Valley.  A Muslim graveyard is beneath the Temple Mt. & Jewish graves are opposite, on the Mt. of Olives.

Some Jewish "graveside services" are held in this small Mt. of Olives shelter.  Both Jews and Muslims bury their dead the very next day.

We topped off the morning with lunch at Aroma on Hebrew U. campus.