Although we explored the Muslim Quarters' underside on 10/16/11 [see post, Zedekiah's Cave / Solomon's Quarries], we first walked solo above ground on 9/13/11. It is the largest (76 acres) & most populous (22K) quarter in the Old City. It extends from Lions' Gate (east), along the Temple Mt. (south), to the Damascus Gate—Western Wall route (west). While not part of the Muslim Quarter, the Temple Mt. itself has been under Muslim Waqf (religious society) custody since 1967.


On 12/14/10 and 4/18/11, we entered Lion's Gate to visit Bethesda & St. Anne's Church on a BYU field trip. We had never entered Herod's Gate before 9/13/11. Its builders in 1540 AD had erroneously named it for Herod, thinking that his son once had a palace just inside the gate. It is also called the Flower Gate because of this stone decoration above it.
We ascended these stairs westerly toward the Spafford Children's Center. Formed in 1925 to help orphans from WW I, it was named for a Chicago couple who cared for sick children here from 1881 until Anna Spafford died in 1924. All their children had perished in an ocean tragedy (collision with another ship) while crossing from America in 1873. From London, Anna plaintively wired Horatio: "Saved alone. What shall I do?"
The existing facility was deeded to this Center by Bertha Spafford in 1935. It is a very large facility -- three bldgs. that had once been a hospital. We saw it from our JC -- above the large grove inside the Old City (left), directly across Sulieman St. from Golgatha & Garden Tomb ( rt.) above the Rockefeller Museum.
We met Dr. Jantien Dajani (former Director) at Herod's Gate, who showed us to their HQ. She was Dutch & married a Palestinian MD before coming here in 1976. We also met Marwan Khadder (new Director). Both spoke good English.
With expanded Israeli healthcare, Spafford has gone from a hospital to an out-patient clinic & daycare facility to an early child development center (speech, physical & occupational therapy). There are regular classes for 11 weeks to 400 school children and weekly remedial support in language, math & psychodrama therapy. Also, many Friday special activities for 200 kids. Besides many offices & classrooms (viewed thru arches), we saw this inside theatre.
In another bldg. were many therapy rooms -- some filled with colorful playthings.
It also had a small kitchen and a "proactive library."
Another bldg. had more performance and therapy facilities.
This unique music room was dedicated to Horatio Spafford. As he sailed to meet his surviving wife, and near the spot where his 4 young daughters perished in the 1873 ocean disaster the previous year, in grief he composed the familiar Christian hymn, "It Is Well With My Soul." (Its words & notes are written on all four walls of the room.)
This outdoor courtyard served as another performance area. A touring Shakespeare group even played there last summer (2011).
Next to it is a shaded play & sitting area -- adjoining the Old City ramparts where the public may walk to Herod's Gate.
Atop their bldgs., looking east, we could see a city play area (paid for by Paul Newman) and a fenced park where the Jordanian army camped during the 1967 war -- across the street from Rockefeller.
On 11/15/11 we returned to discuss hygiene & school kits. First, we explored the park. Much of it had become a children's playground.
Most of it was now a large soccer field with plenty of vacant land beyond.
South across rooftops were Muslim residences + Dome of the Rock, Lutheran Church of Our Redeemer, Holy Sepulcher & Mosque of Omar.
Directly below were the outdoor courtyard and other bldg. access areas.
Looking west, we saw Damascus Gate (center), with New Gate & Terra Sancta (top left) and the Notre Dame Center (top center).
Best of all, directly across Sulieman St., was "Skull Hill" (Golgatha) & the Garden Tomb -- just beyond the busy bus station.
Gen. Charles Gordon first viewed Skull Hill thru a window at this same site, before helping to uncover & develop the adjacent Garden Tomb.
After our 11/15/11 mtgs., we wandered some quiet residential streets.
Crusader-style arches, stairs & some doorways were quite distinctive.
Most doors were metal and closed. One opened into a school yard.
Residents were urged to avoid trashing their streets. All were quite clean.
East of Herod's Gate was a sizeable market area.
Shops & stores were clean and neat -- some were even modern.
Fruits and vegetables looked fresh and inviting.
After both visits, we exited thru Herod's gate. Our excursions on 9/13/11 & 11/15/11 were perfectly calm, with no sign of any unrest or trouble -- despite US' efforts to block unilateral Palestinian statehood.
On 9/13/11 we met the JC taxi after our first visit to the Muslim Quarter.
On 11/15/11 we parked just east of the Gate. Now, to get our car out ...
Afterwards we stopped at the "Arab Costco" -- adjoining wholesale warehouses located just above (west) of the Kidron Valley. This is where faculty families & students came for quantity goods. On Sundays, students wait until 4 pm after breakfast to eat at the Oasis.
Look who's about to buy some candy. (Will anyone notice?)
This is how our JC looked from the Kidron Valley.
We didn't know so much of interest was this close to the JC.

Hey Bentleys, so good to see and read all you're doing. We miss you! May your Thanksgiving be filled with joy and wonderful memories with all your new friends. Your Newport Hills son and daughter-in-law are such a powerful part of the ward and we love them! We, and everyone else, send you our love and best wishes.
ReplyDeleteWeatherford and Lisa Clayton